Sales – JCK

Must-See Pieces in Christie’s June 7 Magnificent Jewels Sale

Annie Davidson Watson — Thu, 25 May 2023 17:15:40 +0000

While the 126.76 ct. internally flawless “Light of Peace” diamond leads Christie’s upcoming Magnificent Jewels with an estimate between $10 million and $15 million, and Anne Eisenhower’s personal collection is another highlight, there are several additional not-to-be-missed pieces in the June 7 sale. Among them: a 3.1 ct. fancy vivid blue diamond ring expected to fetch between $4.2 million and $5.2 million; a Salvador Dalí starfish brooch with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds; and an art deco diamond and emerald necklace by Chaumet with an estimate surpassing $2 million.

The auction will also include signed jewels by Cartier, Harry Winston, and Van Cleef & Arpels and jewelry from the collections of Adolphus Andrews Jr. and Emily Taylor Andrews, Betsey Cushing Whitney, and the Rothschild family. Below is a closer look at some notables in the Christie’s sale.

Jar “shell” brooch from 1997 in 18k rose gold and silver with round diamonds and brown diamonds, estimate $200,000–$300,000

Chaumet art deco necklace (circa 1930) in platinum with 2.96 to 10.28 ct. emerald- and square-cut emeralds, 1.2 to 3.07 ct. emerald- and square-cut diamonds, and baguette- and tapered baguette-cut diamonds, estimate $2 million–$3 million

Van Cleef & Arpels ring (circa 1949) in platinum with round diamonds and a 2.87 ct. round brilliant-cut diamond, estimate $50,000–$70,000

Salvador Dalí circa-1950 “Étoile de Mer” brooch (also pictured at top) in platinum and yellow gold with a cultured pearl, round and single-cut diamonds, round rubies, buff-top emeralds, and green-blue, brown, yellow, and orange round and single-cut diamonds, estimate $1.5 million–$2 million

Van Cleef & Arpels necklace and earring set (circa 1970) in yellow gold with ruby beads, reeded emerald beads, round emeralds, round-, old-, and single-cut diamonds, and black enamel, estimate $400,000–$600,000

Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery-Set bracelet (circa 1960) in platinum with calibre-cut sapphires, and baguette- and single-cut diamonds, estimate $250,000-$350,000

Ring in platinum with a 3.1 ct. fancy vivid blue cushion modified brilliant-cut diamond, estimate $4.2 million–$5.2 million

Necklace with detachable pendant in silver-topped gold with round, cushion, and pear-shape old-cut diamonds, estimate $500,000–$700,000

(Photos courtesy © Christie’s Images Limited 2023)

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The Ones to Watch at Phillips’ Jewels & Jadeite Auction

Annie Davidson Watson — Thu, 11 May 2023 17:19:27 +0000

On May 23, Phillips auction house will host its Jewels & Jadeite sale in Hong Kong, headlined by a Bulgari necklace with diamonds and a 118 ct. Sri Lankan sapphire. “Unique in its size, color, and origin, the stone embodies the transparency and luminosity pursued by Bulgari for its high jewelry creations,” said Benoît Repellin, Phillips’ worldwide head of jewelry, in a statement. “This jewel is a holy grail for any collector, with a classic and elegant design typical of Bulgari that emphasizes the beauty and extraordinariness of the gem.” The necklace goes to auction with an estimate of $3.05 million to $4.5 million.

Further, the auction will include pieces from other leading houses. “In addition to the exceptional Bulgari sapphire and diamond necklace to lead this season’s sale, we are delighted to offer an array of iconic signed pieces such as the Zip necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels and the vintage Tutti Frutti brooches by Cartier,” said Charlene Lau, the head of Phillips Jewels’ Hong Kong department, in a statement. “The sale is also highlighted by a selection of the finest Burmese rubies and rare colored diamonds that are highly sought after in the market.

“We have witnessed a significant growth with unprecedented participation and sell-through rates last season,” Lau said, “and we look forward to carrying on this sturdy buying momentum to our new sale room in Hong Kong this May.” Here’s a closer look at a few of those highlights.

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. ring in yellow gold and platinum with a 6.26 ct. sapphire and marquise-shape and brilliant-cut diamonds, estimate $260,000–$360,000

Chanel Camellia brooch in white gold and platinum with carved onyx and diamonds, estimate $28,000–$40,000

Bracelet in white gold with oval- and cushion-shape Burmese rubies and diamonds, estimate $88,000–$120,000

Earrings with 7.05 ct. and 7.28 ct. cut-cornered square modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamonds and baguette diamonds mounted in white gold, estimate $170,000–$230,000

Cartier Tutti Frutti brooches (circa 1920s) in platinum with single-cut diamonds and carved rock crystals, estimate $62,000–$88,000

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace in pink gold and platinum with brilliant-cut diamonds and circular-cut pink sapphires, estimate $150,000–$200,000

Top: Bulgari necklace in platinum and white gold with 118.35 ct. Sri Lankan sapphire, 2 ct. brilliant-cut diamond, and pear-shape diamonds, estimate $3,050,000–$4,500,000 (photos courtesy of Phillips)

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9 Highlights From Hindman’s May Important Jewelry Auction

Annie Davidson Watson — Tue, 02 May 2023 16:34:12 +0000

Hindman’s latest Important Jewelry sale is just around the corner. On May 16, the Chicago-based auction house (one of the largest in the States) is offering jewels from prominent estates and private clients across the country.

The pieces—from such maisons as Cartier, Tiffany & Co., David Webb, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Verdura—represent a range of styles and periods, from antique to art deco to contemporary. A 5 ct. diamond ring is expected to fetch the highest price, with an estimate of $150,000 to $200,000. Below are a few additional highlights from the sale, including an iconic Scarf necklace by Francesca Amfitheatrof for Tiffany, a couple of signature David Webb designs, a Van Cleef 55-diamond watch, and a Cartier letter opener–meets–timepiece.

Ring in platinum with a 5.03 ct. cushion brilliant-cut diamond, estimate $150,000–$200,000

David Webb horse bracelet in platinum, gold, and enamel with 3.4 cts. t.w. round brilliant-cut diamonds and 1.8 cts. t.w. oval cabochon rubies, estimate $35,000–$55,000

Cartier art deco bracelet in platinum with 15–20 cts. t.w. old European-, single-, baguette-, and bullet-cut diamonds, estimate $30,000–$50,000

Van Cleef & Arpels “Pont des Amoureux” watch in 18k white gold and grisaille enamel with 55 round brilliant-cut diamonds and alligator strap, estimate $70,000–$90,000

Francesca Amfitheatrof for Tiffany & Co. Scarf necklace (also pictured at top) with 16.84 cts. t.w. square modified brilliant-cut diamonds and 3.51 cts. t.w. rose-cut diamonds, estimate $40,000–$60,000

Cartier art deco letter-opener watch in silver and yellow gold with agate, lapis lazuli, and enamel, estimate $8,000–$12,000

David Webb necklace in platinum and 18k yellow gold with 2.2 cts. t.w. brilliant-cut diamonds, azurmalachite, and round cabochon rubies, estimate $25,000–$35,000

Verdura winged brooch in 14k yellow gold and platinum with 0.75 ct. t.w. round brilliant-cut diamonds, estimate $8,000–$10,000

Evelyn Clothier necklace in platinum-plated 18k gold with 3 cts. t.w. old European- and single-cut diamonds and a South Sea pearl, estimate $12,000–$18,000

Bidding for the live auction begins at 10 a.m. Central time/11 a.m. Eastern.

(Photos courtesy of Hindman)

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Highlights From Bonhams’ May California Jewels Sale

Annie Davidson Watson — Mon, 01 May 2023 17:52:39 +0000

On May 9, international auction house Bonhams is hosting its California Jewels sale at its Los Angeles location. Pieces offered in the 339-lot auction span decades, from the early 20th century to modern and contemporary.

“We are honored to offer such magnificent jewels in this auction, especially from such significant and curated private collections,” Emily Waterfall, director of Bonhams’ jewelry department in Los Angeles, said in a statement. “The extraordinary stones and craft of the Oscar Heyman & Brothers emerald pieces, the diamonds and stylish gold jewels from globally sought-after designer Ilias Lalaounis from the Sonoma estate collection, and other wearable and exciting pieces of jewelry are sure to entice jewelry aficionados everywhere.”

Below are a few highlights of the sale, including the aforementioned Oscar Heyman emeralds and a Lalaounis set.

Lalaounis floral and foliate 18k gold ear clips and necklace with removable pendant. Necklace has 7.6 cts. t.w. square and rectangular step-cut emeralds and 9.25 cts. t.w. single-cut diamonds; ear clips have 2.45 cts. t.w. round and rectangular step-cut emeralds and 2.05 cts. t.w. single-cut diamonds, estimate $2,500–$3,500

Necklace in 18k white gold with 19.1 cts. t.w. round diamonds, estimate $8,500–$10,000

Oscar Heyman & Brothers ring in 18k gold and platinum with a 5.89 ct. rectangular step-cut emerald and 3.37 cts. t.w. trapezoidal diamonds, estimate $30,000–$50,000

David Webb brooch (also pictured at top) in 18k gold with enamel, 2.55 cts. t.w. round diamonds, and a pear-shape cabochon emerald, estimate $8,000–$10,000

Oscar Heyman & Brothers bracelet in platinum and 18k gold with 19.64 cts. t.w. graduated rectangular step-cut emeralds and 6.07 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds, estimate $20,000–$30,000

Zolotas textured floral and leaf necklace in 18k bicolor gold with 3.5 cts. t.w. single-cut diamonds and matching ear clips, estimate $2,500–3,500

(Photos courtesy of Bonhams)

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Roger Smith’s One-of-a-Kind Pocket Watch Expected to Fetch Over $1M

Annie Davidson Watson — Thu, 13 Apr 2023 16:22:21 +0000

At just 22 years old, horologist Roger Smith presented the esteemed watchmaker George Daniels with his first handcrafted pocket watch, in hopes of securing an apprenticeship. Daniels, however, sent him back to the drawing board. Five years later, Smith brought Daniels his second attempt: a pocket watch with a perpetual calendar and a tourbillion, spring-detent escapement. Daniel’s feedback? “You are now a watchmaker.”

Smith became Daniels’ sole apprentice. And on June 10 the exact watch that changed Smith’s life and the industry as a whole will be in Phillips’ auction and is expected to take in over $1 million.

Roger Smith’s Pocket Watch No. 2 (circa 1998) could sell for more than $1 million in Phillips’ New York Watch Auction: Eight. (Courtesy of Phillips)

“Roger Smith’s Pocket Watch No. 2 epitomizes a ‘make or break’ moment for both Smith himself and subsequently for all of contemporary English watchmaking,” said Paul Boutros, Phillips’ head of watches in the Americas, in a statement. “It was with this watch that he became George Daniels’ only apprentice, anointed to continue Daniels’ legacy beyond his lifetime.

“The painstaking, yearslong creation of Pocket Watch No. 2 is a testament to one man’s absolute focus and perseverance in the pursuit of his chosen trade. It is without any doubt one of the most important and impressive timepieces made by any contemporary independent watchmaker or brand, and consequently one of the most important watches in the world. We look forward to sharing this remarkable and storied timepiece with our community around the globe.”

Roger Smith with George Daniels, circa 2000s (courtesy of Roger Smith)

This is the first time Smith’s Pocket Watch No. 2 is heading to auction. It is one of only three pocket watches Smith ever created.

At top: Roger Smith in his workshop on the Isle of Man in the 1990s (courtesy of Roger Smith)

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Bulgari Necklace with a Rare 118 Ct. Sapphire Heads to Phillips Auction

Annie Davidson Watson — Tue, 21 Mar 2023 16:30:38 +0000

During Phillips’ upcoming Jewels & Jadeite Sale in Hong Kong on May 23, the auction house will offer an exceptional Bulgari necklace, marking the very first time the piece comes to market from a private collection. The necklace itself features an incredibly rare, 118.35 ct. unheated cushion-shaped sapphire, “Royal Blue,” from Sri Lanka that’s expected to fetch between $3.2 million and $4.5 million.

Bulgari necklace (circa 2004) in platinum and white gold with a 118.35 ct. unheated Sri Lankan sapphire and diamonds, estimate $3,200,000–$4,500,000; Phillips

Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s jewelry creative and gems buying executive director, who held the stone over 20 years ago (before it was realized in 2004), described how “I was so impressed and touched that I still remember the emotion I felt.” She also explained how Sri Lankan sapphires like this one have “the transparency and luminosity” of “gems [that] are infused with light and joy,” making it the perfect gem for a Bulgari piece.

The worldwide head of jewelry at Phillips, Benoît Repellin, also said in a statement: “This one-of-a-kind necklace’s clean and sleek lines, elegant geometry, and the unusual horizontal setting of the 118.35-carat Sri Lankan sapphire are all elements that afford it a timeless modern appeal. Unique in its size, color and origin, the stone embodies the transparency and luminosity pursued by Bulgari for its High Jewellery creations. This jewel is a holy grail for any collector, with a classic and elegant design typical of Bulgari that emphasizes the beauty and extraordinariness of the gem.”

After its unveiling on March 18, the piece is on view now at Phillips’ new Asia headquarters in Hong Kong until it heads to auction. Following, it will embark on an international tour to New York, Singapore, Taipei, and Geneva.

At top: Bulgari’s necklace with a 118.35 ct. sapphire and diamonds heading to Phillips’ May 23 Jewels & Jadeite Sale in Hong Kong. (Photos courtesy of Phillips)

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Highlights from Hindman’s Jewelry Through the Ages Sale, Per Experts

Annie Davidson Watson — Thu, 16 Mar 2023 14:30:41 +0000

On March 21 and March 22, Hindman is hosting its inaugural Jewelry Through the Ages auction exploring jewelry’s evolution from ancient to modern times. The two-day sale features some of the world’s oldest jewels and explores how they’re still represented today. To delve deeper, JCK enlisted two experts: Hindman’s director and senior specialist of antiquities Jacob Coley, who’s overseeing the first day of the sale (Ancient to Neoclassical); and Hindman’s director and senior specialist of jewelry and watches Sally Klarr, who’s overseeing the second day (Georgian to Modern). Below, they speak to a few of the upcoming auction’s highlights.

Greek ring (pictured at top) (circa fifth or fourth century B.C.) in gold, estimate $5,000-$7,000

“A Greek gold finger ring comprised of nearly 98 percent gold is a true treasure,” Coley tells JCK. “Dating to the classical period, the ring is engraved with an armed hoplite, shown in full panoply. His spear is coiled back and his knees are bent as if ready to strike or brace for an impact. The tacking ground line is another unique feature of this—perhaps an artistic technique used to imply rough terrain.”

A Roman ring (circa first or second century A.D.) with the goddess Ceres in gold with carved carnelian, estimate $5,000-$7,000

“From recent exhibitions at major museums to publications of private collections, engraved gems and finger rings from the ancient world seem to be having a real renaissance,” says Coley. “This Roman carnelian ring stone depicting Gryllos [composite figure] in the style of Athena Pallas is a whimsical example. Numerous faces are hidden throughout the goddess’s profile, almost tempting admirers to make a game of counting them.”

Bailey, Banks & Biddle art deco brooch in yellow gold with carved jade, old European-cut diamonds, seed pearls, and enamel, estimate $1,000-$2,000

“As a lovely example of carved jade from the art deco period,” Klarr tells JCK, “this brooch is extra special due to it being signed by Bailey, Banks & Biddle—an old American jewelry firm that is no longer in existence, therefore a rarer piece for any collector.”

Photos courtesy of Hindman

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Highlights From Bonhams’ Upcoming California Jewels Sale

Annie Davidson Watson — Thu, 16 Feb 2023 18:15:25 +0000

On Feb. 22, British auction house Bonhams is looking west for its California Jewels sale. With 244 lots, the sale includes signed pieces from such luxury houses as Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. and jewels from the personal collection of the late philanthropist Peggy Cravens.

Cravens, who was known as an activist for higher education and for her charitable efforts in Palm Springs, Calif., was timelessly stylish, acquiring a collection of unique pieces that are also incredibly wearable. The proceeds from her 20 lots in the Bonhams sale will benefit charities she supported.

“We are excited to start 2023 with our California Jewels sale that has some extraordinary jewels to capture everyone’s imagination, from exquisite high-carat diamonds and statement cuffs to the more classic and refined pieces that never go out of style,” Emily Waterfall, the Los Angeles director of the Bonhams jewelry department, said in a statement.

Below are select highlights, including a 6.09 cts. diamond ring, a 44.95 cts. t.w. diamond necklace, and bracelets from Cartier and David Webb.

Necklace in platinum with 44.95 cts. t.w. graduated baguette diamonds, estimate $50,000–$70,000

Verdura bracelet in 18k gold with wood, cabochon rubies, cabochon emeralds, round cultured pearls, and approximately 2.4 cts. t.w. round diamonds, estimate $18,000–$22,000

Ring in 18k white gold with 6.09 cts. type IIa marquise-shape diamond and 4.3 cts. t.w. round diamonds, estimate $140,000–$200,000

Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. (circa 1981) bracelet in 18k gold with coral and aventurine inlay, estimate $8,000–$12,000

Bracelet in platinum with 29.6 cts. t.w. marquise-shape, baguette, and round diamonds, from philanthropist Peggy Cravens’ collection, estimate $22,000–$28,000

Cartier Panthère de Cartier bracelet (also pictured at top) in 18k gold with pear-shape emerald, estimate $6,000–$8,000

David Webb bracelet in platinum and 18k gold with 16.1 cts. emerald-cut aquamarine and round diamonds, estimate $8,000–$12,000

(Photos courtesy of Bonhams)

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6 Takeaways From The Thanksgiving Weekend Shopping Spree

Karen Dybis — Wed, 30 Nov 2022 17:30:38 +0000

Plan a party and set up a sale: Shoppers for holiday 2022 want to be in stores, and they’re prepared to buy if the price is right.

That’s one of the major takeaways from the trifecta of retail events known as Black Friday, Small Business Saturday, and Cyber Monday, according to jewelry retailers, retail experts, and data analysts, all watching what people were buying Nov. 24–29 with great anticipation.

The National Retail Federation (NRF) reported Nov. 29 that a record 196.7 million Americans shopped both in stores and online during the five-day holiday buying binge from Thanksgiving Day through Cyber Monday. That number is up nearly 17 million from 2021, the Washington, D.C.–based retail trade organization says, and it is the highest figure since the NRF started tracking this data five years ago.

“It is consumer demand that is driving growth,” says NRF president and CEO Matthew Shay in a media call on Nov. 29.

While consumers are wary of economic turbulence—higher inflation, labor challenges, and a looming rail strike that could disrupt multiple industries—these deal-conscious shoppers still got out and enjoyed some post-turkey retail time, Shay says.

Ronnie Taubenfeld, founder of Ronnie Taubenfeld Jewelry, says she saw consumers over the Thanksgiving weekend look for sentimental or personal purchases within her jewelry business.

“I have noticed my customers purchasing larger pieces with strong geometric elements and splashes of color—in particular, pendants and rings,” Taubenfeld says. “Sterling silver is popular, as well as one-of-a-kind pieces imbued with the artist’s touch. Customers are interested in how pieces are made and learning about the designer, seeking a sense of connection to their jewelry purchases rather than trend-focused purchases.”

Here are six takeaways from the retail news of the weekend that could help retailers, particularly jewelers, through the holiday shopping mania.

1. In-store shopping was key. People still went online, but they wanted the experience of browsing and buying inside a brick-and-mortar location, Shay says. As social creatures, humans want to be out and about, and the pandemic-related shutdowns and slowdowns had many people ready to go into stores now that the swell of cases has decreased.

2. Shoppers still want the perception of a deal. In its consumer survey to get these results, the NRF says its respondents were pleased with the sales, promotions, and price matching they saw across retail channels over the Thanksgiving weekend.

3. On average, shoppers told NRF and its research partner Prosper Insights & Analytics that they were almost halfway done with their shopping at this moment. But that leaves “plenty of room for additional purchases in the remaining weeks of the year,” says Prosper executive vice president of strategy Philip Rist.

4. Payment service Klarna reported its “Black Week” shopping data on Nov. 29 and said that its shopping index found people were buying bridal wedding ring sets—this important category was up 41%, Klarna data said—as well as watches and lockets. So, retailers may want to boost the visibility of these products in store for consumers to consider.

5. Don’t sleep on online shopping. Adobe vice president of growth marketing and insights Patrick Brown told CNBC’s TechCheck that not only did jewelry discounting show results for retailers, but also that consumers are still loving the ease of shopping online, especially through their mobile devices. If you haven’t upgraded these shopping channels, this is time to reevaluate and update them.

Adobe Analytics said U.S. shoppers spent $35.4 billion online over the five-day shopping period. Cyber Monday was the biggest day for that weekend with sales topping a record $11.3 billion, or a 5.3% increase from 2021. Black Friday sales rose 2.3% to $9.12 billion.

6. Keep an eye on the potential Dec. 9 deadline for a U.S. rail strike. “It continues to be an unpredictable year and very different than the last two seasons,” Shay says. This potential “serious headwind” that is the rail strike is one of things that might cause concern among consumers, as well as any company needing goods that are transmitted by rail, Shay says. President Biden has called on the U.S. Congress to help block a strike, which some say could cost the nation $2 billion a day.

The NRF defines the holiday season as the time period between Nov. 1 and Dec. 31. The group believes that retail sales will increase between 6% and 8% during this time, or between $942.6 billion and $960.4 billion.

Top: Independent jeweler Ronnie Taubenfeld hopes to spur holiday sales this season with her one-of-a-kind creations, such as this necklace ($285), known as Abstract No. 1. Retailers are seeing more sales in the early part of the holiday time period: Surveys show most consumers have bought about half of their gifts by now (photo courtesy of Ronnie Taubenfeld).

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Jewelry Highlights from Christie’s Lord and Lady Weinstock Sale

Annie Davidson Watson — Mon, 07 Nov 2022 16:25:00 +0000

Known as one of the most visionary businessmen of the late 20th century, Lord Arnold Weinstock is credited for transforming the General Electric Company (GEC) into one of the most lucrative companies of the postwar period. Naturally, he met his wife, Lady Netta Weinstock (née Netta Sobell) through business—she was the daughter of Sir Michael Sobell, who later merged his company, Radio and Allied Industries, with GEC—and the couple married in 1949. Throughout their marriage, they acquired a collection of fine art, furniture, jewels, and even racehorses—but Lady Weinstock’s passions always lay with fine jewelry, particularly that of Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as a tiara here and there for more formal dinner parties that she often attended.

And now, Christie’s is offering Lady Weinstock’s fine jewels, alongside nearly 300 pieces from the couple’s personal collection—Old Master paintings, English and European furniture, and other works of art—in its Nov. 22 sale, The Collection of Lord and Lady Weinstock. While one of the pieces, an antique 100 ct. diamond rivière necklace, is set to be sold in Geneva in the Magnificent Jewels sale on Nov. 8, below are a few highlights from this sale that will hopefully inspire a life as luxurious as a Lady’s.

Van Cleef & Arpels necklace that converts into four bracelets in gold with coral and chrysoprase cabochons, signed, circa 1970s, estimate $28,443–$39,821; Christie’s

Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet in gold with chrysoprase beads, circa 1970s, estimate $9,102–$13,653; Christie’s

Van Cleef & Arpels Cosmos earrings in gold with circular-cut sapphires and diamonds, estimate $9,102–$13,653; Christie’s

Necklace in platinum and gold with rectangular step-cut diamonds and baguette-cut diamonds, circa 1965, estimate $79,642–$91,020; Christie’s

Piaget lady’s wristwatch in gold, estimate $2,275–$3,413; Christie’s

Top: A choker necklace with a detachable, collapsible pendant bail in silver and gold with old cushion-shape diamonds and four strands of cultured pearls, estimate $22,755–$34,132; Christie’s

Photos courtesy of Christie’s

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