The first is a natural diamond update, which will be held Friday, June 2 at 10 a.m. at the Showcase Stage, level 2 of the Venetian Expo. It will feature Tiffany Stevens of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, Kristina Buckley Kayel of the Natural Diamond Council, and Ferel Zerouki of De Beers, and will cover Russian diamonds, attracting young consumers, and sustainability. Plus: questions from you!

The second panel covers “Lab-Grown Diamond Updates” and will be held Saturday, June 3 at 10 a.m., also at the Showcase Stage. Panelists Edahn Golan of Tenoris, Ari Levy of IGI North America, and Joanna Park-Tonks of the International Grown Diamond Association will discuss pricing, detection and disclosure, and sustainability. And answer questions from you!

Hope to see you there. I’ll be happy to sign books. I have even updated my website.

This week: Why some people are hiding their Tiffany bags. How lab-grown diamonds are like freshwater pearls. And a woman discovers her engagement ring contains part of her tooth. All below.

The “luxury party in the U.S. is over”

– Big luxury stocks take a dive

– LVMH chief Arnault loses $11 billion after stock plunge

– Industry confident despite headwinds

– Bulgari CEO says he’s selling “less but better” (subscription)

– Cartier goes all in on high jewelry (subscription)

Tiffany’s flagship now topped by a “jewelry box”

– Inside LVMH’s rift with former Tiffany creative director (subscription)

New trend: “stealth wealth”

– Tiffany customers hiding blue bags due to crime

How long will gold prices stay high?

U.S. imposes sanctions on Russian gold miners

– United Arab Emirates cashes in as Russian sanctions bite

G7 still discussing Russian diamond sanctions

– Indian industry still worried about them

– Antwerp still against them

– Russian colored stones still being sold  (subscription)

– John Jaffay: So what’s the deal here?

Michael Schechter: What freshwater pearls can teach us about lab-grown

Lightbox opens first concept shop

Diamond industry trends and predictions

De Beers CEO optimistic about Botswana deal

– Wants to partner with Botswana in jewelry retail market  (subscription)

– Botswana president not backing down, threatening litigation

– HB Antwerp hopes Botswana deal will usher in “more transparency”

– Richard Chetwode: Has Botswana gone rogue?

– Victoria Gomelsky’s report from Botswana

Namibian newspaper calls for more domestic cutting

– Angola wants beneficiation, too

– Marange still not seeing much benefit from its diamonds

De Beers CEO hails $2 billion investment in South Africa

– Speaks at opening of South African industrial zone (video)

– South African mining minister: De Beers left “too many holes”

How De Beers is rehabbing the Victor mine in Canada

De Beers sees “progress” in sustainability goals

Indian workers sent on unpaid “vacation”

How artificial intelligence will affect diamond grading

How jewelers can make the most of ChatGPT

QRate sells Zulilly to investment firm

Singapore bespoke jeweler Madly raises venture funds

Swarovski CEO on luxury business in China

Genderless jewelry new “high jewelry frontier”

Jewelers Vigilance Committee details “Made in the USA” rules

Daniel’s Jewelers makes jewelry “accessible”

Gen Z loves Rolex, Patek Philippe

Interview with Ben Bridge CEO Lisa Bridge

Hearts on Fire named Rita Maltez global president

– Hearts on Fire beefs up sales team

Audemars Piguet appoints new CEO

LVMH appoints new chief omnichannel and data officer

Bruce Rubin named senior VP of Frederick Goldman

Hunter Tivol McGarth takes over family store 

Jocelyn Zimmer becomes president of Zimmer Brothers

Stanley Zale joins Hill & Co.

Signet appoints new senior VP, investor relations

Hoover & Strong adds members to its sales team

Veer names Pat Henneberry as head of business development 

Terry Castro’s son on maintaining his father’s legacy

Palm Springs luxury jewelry executive murder case heads to trial

Man sentenced for running jewelry-related Ponzi scheme

The ugly fight over massive Brinks jewelry robbery

– Inside job?

Miners use war weapons to hunt rare jewels in Afghanistan (video)

Proliferating gold mines in Venezuela show “grueling, dangerous work”

– How Venezuelan gold is trafficked through Brazil

Signet’s conflict minerals report

World Diamond Council president hails Kimberley Process “diversity”

– KP Civil Society Coalition sees “little reason for celebration”

Despite Nazi shadow, Christie’s sale sets $202 million record

– Yad Vashem rejects Christie’s donation

Sotheby’s to auction Mellon family jewels

Last emperor of China’s watch sells for $6.2 million

New Koh-i-Noor exhibit calls it “symbol of conquest”

– What the crown jewels reveal about Britain’s colonial past

Interview with biographer of Harry Oppenheimer

How Houston jeweler Johnny Dang became “king of bling”

Rihanna rocks a massive diamond on her toe

Woman finds ring she bought for nothing isn’t worth that much

“Horrifying moment” as bride realizes giant diamond is missing from ring

Bride learns engagement ring contains a part of her tooth

Media Watch

The New York Times on the use of black in jewelry, the Mikimoto pearl farm, lab-grown diamond “mourning jewelry,” seashells sold with gems, Maria Callas’ jewels, jewelry brands adapting to the digital age, and jewelry inspired by bugs

From the Podcast

The Jewelry District, Episode 96: Tiffany’s New Flagship, AGS Conclave and AI, JCK Las Vegas Preview

Have a great weekend!

– Email: rbates – at – jckonline.com.

– Twitter: @robbatesjck

– Connect on LinkedIn

 (Photo: Getty Images)  

But brands like Super Smalls, which was founded in 2019 by Maria Dueñas Jacobs, are changing that. With jewelry and accessories intended for ages 3–13, Super Smalls gives kids the opportunity to express themselves like any jewelry lover would—and as a jewelry editor with two super small girls, might I just say they couldn’t have come at a better time.

Jeweler Emily P. Wheeler has made the line even more covetable by bringing her signature design to the children’s accessories. Wheeler’s collaboration with Super Smalls offers the ultimate mama-and-me family matching opportunity: a popular Super Smalls piece for the little one, and a full-size unique fine jewelry version for the grown-up, to complement the mini.

JCK had a few questions for Wheeler about her work with Super Smalls, how becoming a mom has affected her business, and her plans for Jewelry Week in Las Vegas.

How did the collaboration come about? 

Super Smalls and my own brand share the same whimsy-meets-luxury perspective. The only difference is our target audiences—though we both have very keen admirers on the opposite end of the age spectrum. I’ve been a follower of Super Smalls since they launched in 2019, and when I first saw their Magic Unicorn pendant, I knew we had to make something out of our joint philosophies. I reached out to Maria, and it all came together very naturally.

The pieces I created for the collaboration were based on Super Smalls’ best sellers but elevated with precious materials. The integrity of each design is still Super Smalls at its core, but I added my own signature touches like ombré sapphires and hard stones like tiger’s eye, agate, and turquoise.

What has been the reactions to the new releases?

The reception has been amazing! We celebrated the launch with a Mother’s Day event in L.A., and it was so fun to see moms and kids together enjoying and twinning in our pieces. We’ve also had an enthusiastic response on social. I mean, how can you see bejeweled four-leaf clovers and unicorns, and not smile?

You welcomed a little one not too long ago (congratulations and happy belated Mother’s Day!). Has designing jewelry changed for you since becoming a mom?

My Bernadette collection is dedicated to my daughter, Byrdie—it debuted at Couture last year, just after she was born. The collection is a celebration of female empowerment, so it was particularly fitting and important for it to come into the world at the same time as my daughter. In true Emily P. Wheeler fashion, the pieces are unapologetically feminine, and I hope that my work teaches her to embrace her identity.

Beyond designing, the impact of our work has become even more important. Since I started the brand, it’s been my mission to create jewelry that is as responsible and sustainable as possible. I’ve always felt we have a responsibility to do our part to better our industry and the planet, and it’s all for the generation my daughter is a part of and those that follow.

I’m a sucker for anything mama-and-me, especially when the kids are still too small to be embarrassed by me. Do you design any jewelry with your child in mind?

Byrdie is so little that I haven’t created anything for her to wear right now (I leave that to Super Smalls), but I definitely design pieces with the hope that she’ll want to wear them when she’s older.

What are you most looking forward at Las Vegas Jewelry Week?

I’m excited to debut my new Rebels collection at Couture this year. It’s a throwback to my teens in the ’90s—think: black silk cord chokers, pink and green color blocking, and of course more ombré.

Top: Super Smalls’ Lucky Streak four-leaf clover necklace (left, $34) and Emily P. Wheeler’s fine jewelry version (right), a clover necklace in 18k yellow gold with 3.48 cts. t.w. sapphire and crystal quartz, $9,800

The auction will also include signed jewels by Cartier, Harry Winston, and Van Cleef & Arpels and jewelry from the collections of Adolphus Andrews Jr. and Emily Taylor Andrews, Betsey Cushing Whitney, and the Rothschild family. Below is a closer look at some notables in the Christie’s sale.

(Photos courtesy © Christie’s Images Limited 2023)

Follow me on Instagram: @anniedavidsonwatson

Have you ever looked at a gemstone and thought, “Well, that’s juicy!” (I do it all the time.) Or how about the signature Tutti Frutti collection by Cartier—colorful, gemmy, iconic, and historic. The line, which dates back to the 1920s, was inspired by India—but the name brings thoughts of candied fruit.

So yeah, you don’t have to go far to draw a connection between gemstones and fruit. But how about jewels made in the likeness of fruit? Some have gemstones, some do not. They depict nature’s most delicious gifts, and are perfect for summer dressing.

This lighthearted spirit relates to consumers’ thirst for whimsical pieces—like the animal jewels that have been so popular over the past year—and also ties in with ’90s-inspired trends (anyone else suddenly want to wear cherry everything?).

Just before Memorial Day weekend kicks off, check out these juicy jewels for the summer season.

Top: Fruit charms in 14k yellow gold with rhodocrosite, chrismatite, yellow sapphire, amethyst, and emerald, $1,995–$3,995 each; Storrow Jewelry

What I love about Trésor’s moonstone necklace is, well, its moonstones, but also that I can tell how beautifully it would mesh with just about any other necklace.

It’s de rigueur to wear multiple necklaces at once—grouping chunky gold chains, layering pendants, stacking collars—so we want styles that can play well with others. But they should look great alone, too (for when the single statement inevitably comes back into fashion).

Trésor’s piece does both. With its flowery aesthetic and glimmering gems, the necklace might get noticed for its color and joviality. But it could also play well with those aforementioned gold link chains we’re digging so hard right now.

“Inspired by the cuckooflower, this necklace is a new addition to our Flora collection,” Trésor’s designer and founder Puja Bordia tells JCK. “Moonstone—especially rainbow moonstone—has been one of the top-selling gemstones for us,” she says. “Known for its adularescence, it creates distinctive play and exhibits a captivating glow or sheen that moves across the stone as it catches the light from different angles. Also, this beautiful gem works with everyone and with any color outfit, making it universal.”

Puja is readying her brand for the JCK Show in Las Vegas; attendees can see her colorful pieces at the Design Collective area of the show. Puja says to expect “a lot of drop earrings, statement bracelets, flower jewelry, personalized jewelry, earring stacks, stacking rings, and much more.”

The anticipation!

Necklace with 52.84 cts. t.w. pear-shape rainbow moonstone and 0.27 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $4,840; Trésor Collection

Jewelry industry insurance provider Jewelers Mutual Group has announced that LUX Digital Vault—an app with a 15-day insurance trial that jewelers can offer customers—is now available to its waiting list and select retailers.

During beta testing of the app, Jewelers Mutual has reported that 80% of customers who purchased jewelry at a participating retailer downloaded LUX Digital Vault, leaving the store with their new jewelry insured for a 15-day period while they evaluate their specific insurance needs.

“The cutting-edge technology is increasing consumer confidence to protect their jewelry,” said Mike Alexander, chief operating officer at Jewelers Mutual Group, in a statement. He said the app is a way for jewelers to serve their customers in a more meaningful and innovative way, using the tool as an added “digital gift” to enhance the retail store experience. LUX Digital Vault, which can be customized and branded for retail stores, is free for jewelers to offer or for their customers to use.

For more information, visit jewelersmutual.com/luxsurance.

According to TechCrunch, the app expected to launch this summer will stand on its own, but will be partially integrated within Instagram (owned, like Facebook, by Meta). “Users will keep their Instagram verification and handle, and all of their followers will receive a notification to follow them on the to-be-named platform. Meta’s text-based platform will be decentralized and interoperable with Mastodon, which is built on the ActivityPub protocol,” the article on TechCrunch says.

In a letter to a select group of creators, Meta acknowledges that competitors like Mastodon and Bluesky have head starts in the race to possibly supplant Twitter, but says Meta already possesses a successful family of apps, through which billions of users would be able to access its newest venture.

Lia Haberman, a professor of social and influencer marketing at UCLA and one of the users privy to a peek at the new product, allows that it looks a lot like Twitter and notes that preferences on Instagram—blocked accounts, hidden words—would carry over to this new platform.

MoneyControl reports that the new app is code-named P92; a financial tech professional said on Twitter that it may be called Instagram Notes.

While some people might have Twitter-alternative fatigue, Meta’s entry in the field has its strengths. Instagram users probably wouldn’t have to set up a new account, and depending on how much it’s integrated with Instagram, becoming active might feel more approachable, especially if users can automatically retain their Instagram following on the new app—it won’t be like starting from scratch. Plus, while many Instagram users are not active on Twitter, this potential crossover alleviates the burden of toggling between separate platforms. There’s something to be said for one-stop shopping, not just for individuals but for brands especially.

Meta’s competitor is expected to roll out in June of this year, so a potentially viable Twitter alternative isn’t at all far away. As for whether or not it sticks—or goes the way of Instagram’s attempt at a Pinterest alternative (can’t win ’em all!)—we will just have to wait and see.

(Image via Lia Haberman)

Blackstone buys IGI lab for $569.65 million

Everledger to restructure following funder fallout

Will Forevermark last forever?

– De Beers curtailing diamond sales in weak market

– De Beers merges two sales after auctions disappoint

India’s diamond exports sluggish

– Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council chair on Indian industry (video)

G7 plans to track Russian diamonds, not ban them

– Official statement

– U.K. enacting Russian diamond ban

– BBC wonders: How effective?

– Surat nervous about sanctions

– Alrosa appoints new CEO

– Russian miner breaks silence

HB Antwerp wants more African diamond deals

Interesting times for lab-grown diamonds

– WD Lab Grown sued by the Plumb Club

– Adamas One faces delisting

Companies increasingly face greenwashing litigation

– U.K. regulator wants to ban most “carbon-neutral” claims

– Gucci no longer says it’s carbon-neutral

– Madagascar sapphire mine casts doubt on jewelry companies’ ethics (subscription)

– Report: Colombia gets little tax revenue from its emeralds (translation)

FTC Green Guides submissions from the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (finally posted) and Diamond Foundry

Can “recycled gold” ever be ethical?

– Christina T. Miller does a deep dive

Investors go “gaga for gold”

– Gold falls below $2,000

– Some see further losses

Why “retail therapy” is therapeutic

Paul Zimnisky: Self-purchase will boost U.S. diamond market

Why Richemont will always need retail partners

– Richemont says no to tie-ups with LVMH and Kering

LVMH’s “recession-proof” empire

– LVMH zeroes in on China for Tiffany overhaul

– Vogue profiles Alexandre Arnault, Tiffany “mastermind”

Former Tiffany exec Andy Hart joins Mejuri

Stuller moves three vets into C-suite

Jewelers Vigilance Committee hires new VP

Feriel Zerouki becomes president of World Diamond Council

Pure Grown Diamonds expands team

Indian regulator demands payment from Mehul Choksi

Former billionaire Nirav Modi borrowing to pay $150,000 fine

Louis Nchindo’s “ghost” haunts Botswana’s negotiations (subscription)

Owner of closed Las Vegas jeweler had prior conviction

Court convicts five men for stealing jewelry from museum

Danielle Bernstein denies jewelry copying claims

Quality Gold vice president Tony Marciano dies

Harry Levy, respected industry leader, dies

– World Diamond Museum pays tribute

Jewelers of America reveals 20 under 40 “rising stars”

– Professional Jeweller’s U.K. Power List

Ultra-rare Bulgari Laguna Blu diamond sells for $25 million

Art deco pendant by Cartier “soars past estimate” at Hindman sale

Christie’s selling 127 ct. D flawless “Light of Peace”

Holocaust survivors urge Tel Aviv mayor to pull out of Christie’s events

Are Swiss banks still hoarding Nazi gold?

Cartier criticized for using photos of Amazon tribe

Meghan Markle spotted in $200,000 of Princess Diana’s jewelry

Why African diamonds in King Charles’ crown are unlikely to be returned

Blackpink’s Lisa wears Bulgari emeralds

Kim Kardashian pays visit to Tiffany (video)

Will this be the “year of the sneaker” at JCK?

San Francisco jewelry stores turn to check cashing

Ring returned to owner 13 years after being flushed down toilet

Teacher surprised by boy’s gift of diamond earrings

Never-before-seen diamonds found in Canyon Diablo meteorite from outer space

You have 20/20 vision if you can spot the diamond ring in this picture

Media Watch

CBS News on lab-grown versus natural diamonds (video)

South China Morning Post on lab-grown diamonds

Financial Times on cartoon watches, gem setter Pierre Salanitro, watch brand FP Journe, Roger Smith’s $1 million pocket watch, and what defines a women’s watch

From the Blog

Will Forevermark Last Forever?

From the Podcast

The Jewelry District, Episode 95: Guest Lawrence Hess

Have a great weekend!

– Email: rbates – at – jckonline.com.

– Twitter: @robbatesjck

– Connect on LinkedIn

 (Photo: Getty Images)   

These “wearable sculptures,” as the designer aptly calls them—jewelry versions of her own acclaimed sculptures—were only created in the past year, Mia’s introduction to the jewelry industry. She will be bringing them to the Design Collective on the show floor at JCK Las Vegas, an event we’re eagerly awaiting.

With two weeks to go before JCK, we spoke with Mia about her expectations for the show, her target clientele, storytelling through art and jewelry, and more.

What sparked your interest in the jewelry industry?

I’ve been a sculptor for several decades, working to reveal enchanting nuances of character in the smallest details of each piece I create.

The development of children—their physical transformation and their emotional growth—is my work’s greatest inspiration, never ceasing to fascinate me and drive me to attempt to capture their vibrancy and radiance.

The first and most honest depiction of my heart, a sculpted response to life around me, was of my daughter, my first child, shortly after she was born. The sculpture was such a creation of love that I made every effort to sculpt her exactly as I saw her, how she felt under my fingertips, and how she made my soul feel. This expression of profound love was so fulfilling that ever since, I have been sculpting similar love stories—stories that belong to so many of us.

So as a sculptor, I am also a storyteller speaking not through linguistics but through raw emotion, recognizing and cherishing any glimpses of individual stories in their purest form.

I decided to create jewelry to keep the uplifting stories of the sculptures ever vibrant, proactive, and at the front of mind. My jewelry is designed and created using only components of my sculptures. This compositional re-creation allows the story of each sculpture to be continued, worn, and thus shared more freely than its stationary sculpture counterpart.

What do you like best about designing jewelry? 

My favorite part of designing the jewelry is seeing my sculptures in an entirely new way, allowing the original stories of the sculptures to be retold in an exquisitely intimate composition. I love seeing a sculpture in a new environment, a setting so small that it becomes a storyboard—for example, within a cuff bracelet or a story detail in an earring.

What has been the reception to your jewels so far?  

I have been delighted with a wonderfully enthusiastic response to the jewelry. People tell me that they’ve never seen jewelry quite like it before, and that the look and feel of it speaks to original art.

I have two daughters in their late 20s with opposite and very particular tastes. They both love the jewelry, fashioning their daily outfits around their jewelry choice of the day. Their friends and coworkers are excited about it too. We as parents secretly strive to be “cool” with our kids; I’m thrilled that the jewelry has helped me make the cut!

What kind of customer do you create for—who do you expect would be most interested in your jewelry? 

Currently I create for women of all ages. I think that older teens to great-grandmothers will identify with at least one of the stories of the jewelry. Some pieces have narratives of boldness, confidence, and bravery like in the Vigor collection, and others are romantic and tender like those of Harmony. The Soaring collection delivers a universal message of empowerment, and Arise, with birds from every continent of the globe, celebrates solidarity and equality. She Moves the Stars, Lift Her With Butterflies, and Sunshine Every Day all cherish the exuberance, light, and pure joy of childhood.

I hope that my customers will see my jewelry as keepsakes, with stories to be shared with those near and dear to them.

What are you most looking forward to at the JCK show?

I have heard that the show is extremely busy, with jewelry devotees from all over the world. I am excited to step into this new arena, which is sure to be a departure from the leisurely and contemplative settings of the fine art exhibitions where I show my sculptures.

I am looking forward to thoughtful, constructive feedback on my jewelry, especially from retailers who know their clientele well and are looking for something new and different to offer them.

Are you preparing anything new to showcase at JCK (and, if so, are we allowed a sneak peek)? 

My entire jewelry line is new—I’m thrilled to share it with you.

Top: Harmony cuff in 18k gold-plated bronze and hand-painted ivory, $500; Angela Mia

Like me, many female-identifying attendees bring an abundance of footwear options to Las Vegas Jewelry Week—heels that get worn once, maybe twice, and innumerable cute flats. But alas, Birkenstocks and Repetto Cendrillons fall short when it comes to the support you need for a day spent on your feet. And this year, I think it’s fine to throw your heels in the “no” pile and let your sneakers slide into the spotlight—no one will give you side-eye, I promise.

Why? Why now? Sneakers have become a post-pandemic wardrobe essential with stealth chic appeal. As a recent article in The Atlantic put it, “cool people saved America’s feet.”  As such, earlier this year, Tiffany broke the internet with its Nike collab. For those who couldn’t score a pair, New Balance’s normcore reign shows no signs of stopping. And Footwear News even ran a whole article on Succession character Kendall Roy and his kicks of choice (he leans heavily toward Gucci but has also sported Valentino, Lanvin, and Common Projects ). From the article: “Overall, Kendall’s shoe style in Succession is understated and elegant, reflecting his position as a member of the wealthy elite.”

This may not be a terrible MO for those of us attempting to plan outfits for Vegas that work in a professional, upscale context. I am trying to avoid the term “quiet luxury,” but here we are.

I’ve curated this post in a way that attempts to tamp down my naturally maximalist, color-positive aesthetic to highlight sneaker styles that read as sleek, polished, and maybe a little bit glam (we are jewelry professionals at a jewelry show, after all). I went for neutrals so one pair can easily coordinate with a variety of looks, whether it’s a pinstripe suit or a floral maxi dress.

Let’s start with what the Princess of Wales was spotted wearing recently:

To perfect the vibe of “I didn’t know what to wear so I went with pearls,” I think we have to strongly consider this perennial classic—specifically, the iconic green-trim version:

For something fun that doesn’t verge on clownish: the “tennies” of my youth, heaped in silver glitter.

This here is a Kendall Roy special:

Not all of my picks are sneakers with laces but rubber-soled shoes with sneaker-esque styling. I loved these slip-ons—they deserve a replay at next year’s Tucson gem show (thus, they practically pay for themselves):

What follows is more from my sneaker-shopping caper. Order now so they get here in time for your flight to Vegas!

White slip-on sneaker shoe, price on request; Casablanca

Top: Little bit of flair, lots of comfort—if you pack one thing for JCK Las Vegas, let it be a pair of sneakers like these. NV Numeric 440, $79.99; New Balance

Follow me on Instagram: @aelliott718