The auction will also include signed jewels by Cartier, Harry Winston, and Van Cleef & Arpels and jewelry from the collections of Adolphus Andrews Jr. and Emily Taylor Andrews, Betsey Cushing Whitney, and the Rothschild family. Below is a closer look at some notables in the Christie’s sale.

(Photos courtesy © Christie’s Images Limited 2023)

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Like me, many female-identifying attendees bring an abundance of footwear options to Las Vegas Jewelry Week—heels that get worn once, maybe twice, and innumerable cute flats. But alas, Birkenstocks and Repetto Cendrillons fall short when it comes to the support you need for a day spent on your feet. And this year, I think it’s fine to throw your heels in the “no” pile and let your sneakers slide into the spotlight—no one will give you side-eye, I promise.

Why? Why now? Sneakers have become a post-pandemic wardrobe essential with stealth chic appeal. As a recent article in The Atlantic put it, “cool people saved America’s feet.”  As such, earlier this year, Tiffany broke the internet with its Nike collab. For those who couldn’t score a pair, New Balance’s normcore reign shows no signs of stopping. And Footwear News even ran a whole article on Succession character Kendall Roy and his kicks of choice (he leans heavily toward Gucci but has also sported Valentino, Lanvin, and Common Projects ). From the article: “Overall, Kendall’s shoe style in Succession is understated and elegant, reflecting his position as a member of the wealthy elite.”

This may not be a terrible MO for those of us attempting to plan outfits for Vegas that work in a professional, upscale context. I am trying to avoid the term “quiet luxury,” but here we are.

I’ve curated this post in a way that attempts to tamp down my naturally maximalist, color-positive aesthetic to highlight sneaker styles that read as sleek, polished, and maybe a little bit glam (we are jewelry professionals at a jewelry show, after all). I went for neutrals so one pair can easily coordinate with a variety of looks, whether it’s a pinstripe suit or a floral maxi dress.

Let’s start with what the Princess of Wales was spotted wearing recently:

To perfect the vibe of “I didn’t know what to wear so I went with pearls,” I think we have to strongly consider this perennial classic—specifically, the iconic green-trim version:

For something fun that doesn’t verge on clownish: the “tennies” of my youth, heaped in silver glitter.

This here is a Kendall Roy special:

Not all of my picks are sneakers with laces but rubber-soled shoes with sneaker-esque styling. I loved these slip-ons—they deserve a replay at next year’s Tucson gem show (thus, they practically pay for themselves):

What follows is more from my sneaker-shopping caper. Order now so they get here in time for your flight to Vegas!

White slip-on sneaker shoe, price on request; Casablanca

Top: Little bit of flair, lots of comfort—if you pack one thing for JCK Las Vegas, let it be a pair of sneakers like these. NV Numeric 440, $79.99; New Balance

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“The standout lot,” says Morrissey, is a 6.22 ct. fancy pink radiant-cut diamond ring. It comes from “the important collection of an international lady,” according to Bonhams’ website. Below is a closer look at the headlining pink diamond ring and other highlights—a Van Cleef & Arpels multicolored sapphire necklace convertible to a bracelet; a Cartier ring with a 5+ ct. diamond, Fabergé cigarette cases from the estate of Hélène Irwin Crocker Fagan, and a Cartier brooch with diamonds and rubies.

(Photos courtesy of Bonhams)

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Further, the auction will include pieces from other leading houses. “In addition to the exceptional Bulgari sapphire and diamond necklace to lead this season’s sale, we are delighted to offer an array of iconic signed pieces such as the Zip necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels and the vintage Tutti Frutti brooches by Cartier,” said Charlene Lau, the head of Phillips Jewels’ Hong Kong department, in a statement. “The sale is also highlighted by a selection of the finest Burmese rubies and rare colored diamonds that are highly sought after in the market.

“We have witnessed a significant growth with unprecedented participation and sell-through rates last season,” Lau said, “and we look forward to carrying on this sturdy buying momentum to our new sale room in Hong Kong this May.” Here’s a closer look at a few of those highlights.

Top: Bulgari necklace in platinum and white gold with 118.35 ct. Sri Lankan sapphire, 2 ct. brilliant-cut diamond, and pear-shape diamonds, estimate $3,050,000–$4,500,000 (photos courtesy of Phillips)

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The Bridgerton-adjacent period drama—created, like Bridgerton, by Shonda Rhimes—reimagines the life of Queen Charlotte, her marriage to King George III (yes, that King George III), and their gloriously beribboned, French-influenced life at court.

Here’s the trailer; all six episodes are available for bingeing on Netflix as of today.

To fully appreciate how well the Larkspur & Hawk jewels layer into the show’s portrayal of the Georgian royals, a little historical context might be helpful.

“King George III and Queen Charlotte were a pretty dynamic couple, and by the standards of the times, a very modern couple,” says Satloff, who is a scholar and specialist in the history of decorative arts. Prior to launching her first collection, she did her graduate studies at Sotheby’s and the Cooper Hewitt museum and also worked as a museum curator at institutions like the New York Historical Society. “Parenting was very important to them. Women’s issues were important to them, especially to her.”

The reigning aesthetic of the day, notes Satloff, was heavily influenced by the French. “Even when the English are fighting with France, they’re still influenced by France in terms of style, especially French textiles and ribbons and other finery,” she says. “And we know that Queen Charlotte was a pen pal with Marie Antoinette. I don’t know that they ever met in person, but they definitely were friends via letter writing.”

As for the jewelry of the day, “it’s very romantic, very sentimental jewelry,” says Satloff. “You’re going to see things like portrait miniatures, you’re going to see hearts and flowers, hair ornaments, jewels set en tremblant, and ribbons. And expect to see flatter stones—rose cuts, table cuts, less-advanced stonecutting techniques that we are used to today.”

Meanwhile, anyone familiar with the Larkspur & Hawk brand knows that foil-backing diamonds and gemstones was a common practice in Georgian-era jewelry design and that Satloff has resurrected the technique as a distinguishing feature of her collection. In the past, she says, “one of the considerations that Georgian jewelers were after was how the stones would sparkle and glow in candlelight in the evening for parties.”

On some level, this was also the primary consideration for Queen Charlotte’s Emmy Award–winning costume designer Lyn Paolo when it came to selecting  jewels to complement the sumptuous—and wildly embellished—gowns she created for the show (in collaboration with co-designer Laura Frecon).

In her search for authentic Georgian jewels, “I was visiting all these fantastic antique stores in and around London but struggling to figure out how to modernize the look, so that it would have the essence of the period but still feel relevant to the modern eye,” says Paolo, whose CV includes such shows as Scandal (ABC), How to Get Away With Murder (ABC), Inventing Anna (Netflix), and Shameless (Showtime). It was Paolo’s New York-based publicist Linda Kearns who connected her to Larkspur & Hawk.

“What I love about Emily Satloff and her team is that they wanted to see what I was doing first, which I respect 100 percent,” says Paolo. “They didn’t just say yes to me right away—because Emily takes her world so seriously, and she’s so passionate about Georgian jewelry. So I sent her a PDF of swatches and fabrics and some preproduction images, and we discovered that we speak the same language. And I immediately fell in love with her as a human and have now become obsessed with her jewelry.”

The collaboration took off from there, a two-year process filled with virtual meetings and the exchange of innumerable images, sketches, and swatches. Paolo would send visuals to convey creative direction, and Satloff would send photos of the jewels she had on hand, scouring her inventory to find pieces that hit just right note, in just the right palette.

In all, Satloff thinks she sent about 75 pieces off to the U.K. for use in the show, and quite a lot of them made the cut.

“In the garden where Charlotte first meets George—I love that rivière necklace and earrings that Emily created for that scene,” says Paolo (you’ll see it in episode 1 and in the trailer above). “I think it’s so perfect because you can see that the jewels that she’s wearing are spectacular in their own right, but they’re not ostentatious, not as ostentatious as what we see on her later on. I felt like that moment was a perfect moment for the collaboration between Larkspur & Hawk and myself.”

Another piece to keep your eyes peeled for: Queen Charlotte’s engagement ring. “It’s a ring that I designed many years ago in an early iteration of my business,” Satloff says. “The original ring that Queen Charlotte was given by King George III on her wedding day is a portrait miniature of King George with a cluster formed with diamonds around it. She wore throughout her life, often on her pinky.”

“Our ring is not literal, but more evocative of the shape and looks likes it is from the Georgian period,” she says. “It’s foiled white quartz in a cluster style. My intention when I designed it was to imitate the color of 18th century rose-cut diamonds. So it has soft gray to it. And because it’s Queen Charlotte, it’s a pretty sizable center stone that [reads as] a diamond. It’s believable. It feels regal. It feels important.”

Speaking of regal and important—you may have heard something about another royal event happening this week: King Charles III’s coronation on May 6. But with its dress code of “business attire,” Queen Charlotte seems to be the occasion more likely to deliver the ultimate in royal glamour and resplendence. Guess which one I’m here for.

Top: India Amarteifio plays the title role in Queen Charlotte, which is now available for streaming on Netflix. (All production photos courtesy of Netflix)

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The head of Christie’s Americas jewelry department, Daphne Lingon, described Eisenhower as “a woman who led an extraordinary life of taste, style, and philanthropy, while remaining true to her values. From exquisite designs by Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels to important gemstones, this auction presents a unique opportunity for collectors to obtain a jewel that was thoughtfully acquired over a 40-year period by a true tastemaker.”

Below are some highlights from Christie’s Magnificent Jewels of Anne Eisenhower sale, including an internally flawless 20 ct. diamond, the Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet acquired by Dietrich after she wore it in Alfred Hitchcock’s Stage Fright, and plenty more.

(Photos courtesy © Christie’s Images Limited 2023)

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The brooch was commissioned by the fifth countess of Rosse, Frances Lois Parsons, to wear to the 1911 coronation of King George V and Queen Mary (Charles’ great-grandparents). “The dragonfly brooch flew in the face of traditional formal jewelry at the time,” said Hancocks London’s managing director, Guy Burton, in a statement. “To have a new jewel commissioned for such an occasion, particularly one of this size and design, was unusual and would certainly have made a significant impact and a real statement.”

Originally crafted from a pair of briolette emerald drop earrings, the brooch was designed so the briolettes could be detached and repurposed as earrings.

It is available in its original box and comes with a handwritten note: “This brooch was made out of the earrings of the antique emerald and diamond parure of the Rosse family – by Lois Lady Rosse for the 1911 Coronation, & also some extra diamonds were added in. (designed by her father Sir Cecil Lister Kaye) To be entailed with the family emeralds.”

“We are honored to be offering this remarkable jewel for sale,” Burton said. “Wouldn’t it be wonderful for it to be snapped up and worn by one of the 1,000 guests at the Westminster Abbey ceremony on May 6? It would be back in its familiar surroundings and in extremely good company.”

Top: En tremblant dragonfly brooch in 18k gold and silver with approximately 25 cts. t.w. briolette emeralds, approximately 2 cts. t.w. faceted round emeralds, and approximately 12 cts. t.w. old-cut diamonds, $440,000 (£350,000); Hancocks London

(Photos courtesy of Hancocks London)

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The Wolfs, with upbringings on the Wyoming Air Force Base and in Brooklyn, built the Wolf Land Company and Inexco Oil Company and championed American art in their private collections. Among the more than 1,000 pieces that adorned carefully curated spaces in their Fifth Avenue home were paintings by John Singleton Copley and Gilbert Stuart, objects by Frank Lloyd Wright, lighting by Tiffany Studios, and silver by Paul Revere Jr.

They also amassed some incredible jewels, from such houses as Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, and David Webb. Below are a few of the jewelry highlights.

(Photos courtesy of Sotheby’s)

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As Bob Colacello, editor of Interview in the 1970s and early 1980s, writes in the foreword: “Cora’s creations [are] made with a sense of play as well as great invention and craft.”

They are also the product of her highly active imagination.

Written by William Grant (author of Andrew Grima: The Father of Modern Jewelry), the book was published to mark the 20th anniversary of Sheibani’s eponymous jewelry brand. Buttressed by commentary and personal remembrances shared by Sheibani herself, it’s a faithful celebration of the Swiss-born, London-based jewelry designer’s unique point of view, which has created jewelry equal parts whimsical (hello, pills, puddings, and plant pots) and architectural (the Valence collection, inspired by diagrams of atomic structures).

The daughter of prominent Swiss art dealers and collectors, Sheibani recalls Jean-Michel Basquiat casually inviting her to make a painting with him in the family garage when she was 4 years old (she was Cora Bischofberger then). Her childhood bedroom had furnishings by Italian architect Ettore Sottsass. In 1983 her father’s gallery hosted a “Paintings for Children” exhibition by Andy Warhol—and there’s a photo of Sheibani, who was a toddler, at the show on page 20.

After an upbringing immersed in the world of fine arts, she attended New York University, where she graduated with a degree in art history in 2001. She held the first exhibition of her work in 2002.

All of this biographical background effectively provides Sheibani’s collectors and fans a more intimate context in which to appreciate the jewelry designer’s work.

Anyone who sees Sheibani’s jewelry can detect the influence of sculpture and surrealism along with a painterly approach to color, whether it’s citrine and carnelian carved into the shape of Bundt cakes or green and purple anodized aluminum used for the leaves in her now famous Pottering Around series.

But when you spend some time reading about her rise to acclaim, you become intimately acquainted with the trappings of her creative world. There’s even a photo of her bedside table on page 196.

You will come away with a deeper understanding of her design process and passions (“I like cooking and baking and now gardening, and these things have naturally entered my jewelry universe,” she says in the text)—and a feverish desire to acquire and wear her jewels, whether it’s a cupcake or a potted fern or a ring that glows with fluorescent gems.

Top: Cora Sheibani and the new book about her life and jewelry (photos courtesy of Cora Sheibani). Copper Mould, Glow, and Pottering Around photos by Richard Valencia/© Cora Sheibani.

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“We attribute just as much importance to precious stones and the creation and design of jewelry as we do to the fostering of genuine solidarity, bringing together the international community of traders in precious stones and antique jewelry, designers, and all those with a passion for jewels,” said GemGenève cofounder Thomas Faerber in a statement.

Beyond jewels, the show offers visitors the opportunity to attend panel discussions, lectures, and other educational programs led by industry experts on relevant topics ranging from gemstone mining and sustainability to jewelry design.

Show cofounder Ronny Totah explained in a statement how the event differs this year from previous years: “GemGenève will be taking over Hall 1 at Palexpo, with total exhibition space of over 13,000 square meters [nearly 140,000 square feet]. Exhibitors will be arrayed around four coffee station areas, two main aisles, and a lounge hosting exhibition spaces, projects, and after-work musical and literary events. Indeed, music will be very much a part of the event this year, thanks to a concept designed by our director, Mathieu Dekeukelaire.”

Below are a few of the must-see pieces that will be at the show. For ticketing and information, visit GemGenève’s official site.

(Photos courtesy of GemGenève)

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