Industry – JCK https://www.jckonline.com The Industry Authority Fri, 26 May 2023 17:54:46 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.1 https://www.jckonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/cropped-icon-jck-512-2-32x32.png Industry – JCK https://www.jckonline.com 32 32 Man Sentenced for Running Jewelry-Related Ponzi Scheme https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/jewelry-related-ponzi-scheme/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/jewelry-related-ponzi-scheme/#respond Fri, 26 May 2023 17:52:54 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=172352 A New York federal judge has sentenced John Quadrino of Oceanside. N.Y., to 41 months in prison for running a Ponzi scheme involving companies that purportedly sold used jewelry and gold. Quadrino was also required to pay $3.3 million in restitution to his victims.

Quadrino had pleaded guilty to one count of conspiring to commit wire fraud in 2018. Sentencing was delayed because of the COVID-19 pandemic.

According to a press release about the sentencing from the U.S. Attorney’s Office for the Eastern District of New York, Quadrino told investors that his three companies—Princess Cut Industries, Sassy Jewelry Buyers, and Golden Glitter Trading—would buy jewelry and gold and then resell them to refineries and jewelers.

Investors were promised a “guaranteed, fixed rate of return at the end of the agreed upon time period,” said the Justice Department press release.

However, “Quadrino never actually purchased gold, jewelry, or diamonds in any significant quantities. Instead, Quadrino systematically engaged in a classic Ponzi scheme, over the course of five years, returning investor principal and interest from the investor capital of other victims,” said the release. He also used “investor capital to issue checks to himself and to pay for his personal gambling expenses,” it said.

All in all, Quadrino raised $13.1 million from a variety of local investors, who eventually lost a total of $3.3 million, the government charged.

According to Newsday, Quadrino apologized in court to his victims, some of whom were old family friends who testified against him. He said he’d intended to establish a legitimate business, but early mistakes were compounded by later ones.

Defense attorney Robert LaRusso asked for home confinement, saying his client suffers from a serious medical condition and won’t get the medical attention he needs in prison, the newspaper reported. LaRusso said in court that Quadrino “has changed his life. This will not happen again.”

The attorney could not be reached for further comment.

(Photo: Getty Images)

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Hearts on Fire Names Rita Maltez Global President https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/hearts-on-fire-global-president/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/hearts-on-fire-global-president/#respond Fri, 26 May 2023 17:50:24 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=172295 Former Rio Tinto Diamonds exec Rita Maltez has been appointed global president of Hearts on Fire.

She has been Hearts on Fire’s acting global president since 2021, leading items teams across Hong Kong, China, Taiwan, and North America. She reports to Sonia Cheng, vice chairman of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, which purchased the company in 2014.

Maltez previously worked at miner Rio Tinto in a variety of roles, eventually serving as head of Rio Tinto Diamonds for Asia. Following that, she founded Bravva Consulting, where she worked with GIA and Swarovski on corporate strategies and new business initiatives.

Hearts on Fire recently added several employees to its sales staff, including veterans of De Beers, Gabriel and Co., and Pandora.

(Photo courtesy of Hearts on Fire)

 

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Mermaidcore Channels ‘Little Mermaid’ Fever Into Jewelry https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/mermaidcore-little-mermaid-jewelry/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/mermaidcore-little-mermaid-jewelry/#respond Fri, 26 May 2023 17:49:52 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=172319 Anyone who has dreamed of adventure and believed in love at first sight would be taken with the courage, determination, and headstrong spirit of Ariel and other characters in Disney’s The Little Mermaid.

Disney’s new live-action version of The Little Mermaid hits theaters May 26, and fans of the 1989 animated movie are ready to experience Ariel’s story all over again—with the lilting voice of Halle Bailey and music of Lin-Manuel Miranda refreshing a longtime favorite.

Jewelry designers have often been inspired by the sea and sand, drawing on the allure of the waves and beachfront vibes. Add Mermaid characters like weary yet adoring Sebastian, thoughtful Flounder, and even the sexy villain Ursula to their canvas, and they create jewelry that tells a story and shows off stones, pearls, and precious metals.

The Disney film’s influence on fashion has been called mermaidcore, and it includes plenty of great jewelry to wear this summer.

Some designers get to work directly with the source material: RockLove Jewelry is licensed by Disney, and owner/designer Allison Cimino has crafted earrings and other pieces inspired by Ariel’s journey from sea to land to love.

Little Mermaid Bubbles RockLove
Allison Cimino created these Little Mermaid-inspired earrings ($115) as well as a necklace and ring featuring Austrian crystal solitaires in tones of sea foam, periwinkle, and aquamarine, surrounded bezel-set crystals representing the bubbles of the sea (photo courtesy of RockLove).

The Little Mermaid is “an enduring ‘tail’ of love and sacrifice,” says the RockLove website, and the brand’s bubble stud earrings “are an homage to Ariel’s courage, reminding us that when faced with challenges, we must believe in ourselves and never give up on our dreams.”

Designer Yvonne Leon’s jewelry is not “officially” related to the movie, but she also feels inspired by the water and the creatures found there. “The sea is my element,” Leon says. “I have always loved to incorporate all the elements of the universe into my work. To me, the ocean brings happiness and joy to my life.”

Here is some jewelry, by Leon and others, that feels like it was inspired by The Little Mermaid or connected to Ariel and the underwater world.

Yvette Leon crab
With black diamonds for the eyes and gray diamonds on his legs, this Yvette Leon crab ring ($1,550) is like an elegant homage to Ariel’s pal Sebastian. (Photo courtesy of Yvette Leon)
Kismet by Milka
The Marine necklace ($3,330) from Kismet by Milka’s Open Sea collection seems like something Ursula would rock as she croons her intentions to a naive Ariel. (Photo courtesy of Kismet by Milka)
Diamond Dipped Looped Huggie
Tejen created these wave-like looped huggie earrings ($6,000), part of the brand’s new Diamond Dipped collection, to remind you of the hypnotic nature of the sea. (Photo courtesy of Tejen)
omé
Freshwater pearls in Omé’s Ava necklace ($380) would make any mermaid feel special when she comes on land to meet her Prince Charming.
Sea Shell Toe Ring
Dip your toe into the water with style wearing this Jared seashell toe ring ($330). (Photo courtesy of Jared)
Charles Colvard Caydia Ring
Ursula’s two “babies,” the moray eels Flotsam and Jetsam, might adore this Charles & Colvard Caydia Ring ($599) with lab-grown diamonds and lab-grown sapphires. (Photo courtesy of Charles & Colvard)
Zales Seashell Earrings
Delicate scalloped edges of these Zales seashell earrings ($949) nod to King Triton and his magnificent crown. (Photo courtesy of Zales)

Top: Kay Jewelers mermaid necklace ($499), in 14k yellow gold with diamonds, looks like Ariel dancing through the ocean waves. (Photo courtesy of Kay Jewelers)

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May 26 Diamond Shavings: Your Web Roundup  https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/may-26-diamond-shavings/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/may-26-diamond-shavings/#respond Fri, 26 May 2023 17:47:58 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=172344 A promotional note to start: I will be moderating two panels at JCK Las Vegas next week.

The first is a natural diamond update, which will be held Friday, June 2 at 10 a.m. at the Showcase Stage, level 2 of the Venetian Expo. It will feature Tiffany Stevens of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, Kristina Buckley Kayel of the Natural Diamond Council, and Ferel Zerouki of De Beers, and will cover Russian diamonds, attracting young consumers, and sustainability. Plus: questions from you!

The second panel covers “Lab-Grown Diamond Updates” and will be held Saturday, June 3 at 10 a.m., also at the Showcase Stage. Panelists Edahn Golan of Tenoris, Ari Levy of IGI North America, and Joanna Park-Tonks of the International Grown Diamond Association will discuss pricing, detection and disclosure, and sustainability. And answer questions from you!

Hope to see you there. I’ll be happy to sign books. I have even updated my website.

This week: Why some people are hiding their Tiffany bags. How lab-grown diamonds are like freshwater pearls. And a woman discovers her engagement ring contains part of her tooth. All below.

 

The “luxury party in the U.S. is over”

– Big luxury stocks take a dive

– LVMH chief Arnault loses $11 billion after stock plunge

– Industry confident despite headwinds

– Bulgari CEO says he’s selling “less but better” (subscription)

– Cartier goes all in on high jewelry (subscription)

 

Tiffany’s flagship now topped by a “jewelry box”

– Inside LVMH’s rift with former Tiffany creative director (subscription)

 

New trend: “stealth wealth”

– Tiffany customers hiding blue bags due to crime

 

How long will gold prices stay high?

 

U.S. imposes sanctions on Russian gold miners

– United Arab Emirates cashes in as Russian sanctions bite

 

G7 still discussing Russian diamond sanctions

– Indian industry still worried about them

– Antwerp still against them

– Russian colored stones still being sold  (subscription)

– John Jaffay: So what’s the deal here?

 

Michael Schechter: What freshwater pearls can teach us about lab-grown

 

Lightbox opens first concept shop

 

Diamond industry trends and predictions

 

De Beers CEO optimistic about Botswana deal

– Wants to partner with Botswana in jewelry retail market  (subscription)

– Botswana president not backing down, threatening litigation

– HB Antwerp hopes Botswana deal will usher in “more transparency”

– Richard Chetwode: Has Botswana gone rogue?

– Victoria Gomelsky’s report from Botswana

 

Namibian newspaper calls for more domestic cutting

– Angola wants beneficiation, too

– Marange still not seeing much benefit from its diamonds

 

De Beers CEO hails $2 billion investment in South Africa

– Speaks at opening of South African industrial zone (video)

– South African mining minister: De Beers left “too many holes”

 

How De Beers is rehabbing the Victor mine in Canada

 

De Beers sees “progress” in sustainability goals

 

Indian workers sent on unpaid “vacation”

 

How artificial intelligence will affect diamond grading

 

How jewelers can make the most of ChatGPT

 

QRate sells Zulilly to investment firm

 

Singapore bespoke jeweler Madly raises venture funds

 

Swarovski CEO on luxury business in China

 

Genderless jewelry new “high jewelry frontier”

 

Jewelers Vigilance Committee details “Made in the USA” rules

 

Daniel’s Jewelers makes jewelry “accessible”

 

Gen Z loves Rolex, Patek Philippe

 

Interview with Ben Bridge CEO Lisa Bridge

 

Hearts on Fire named Rita Maltez global president

– Hearts on Fire beefs up sales team

 

Audemars Piguet appoints new CEO

 

LVMH appoints new chief omnichannel and data officer

 

Bruce Rubin named senior VP of Frederick Goldman

 

Hunter Tivol McGarth takes over family store 

 

Jocelyn Zimmer becomes president of Zimmer Brothers

 

Stanley Zale joins Hill & Co.

 

Signet appoints new senior VP, investor relations

 

Hoover & Strong adds members to its sales team

 

Veer names Pat Henneberry as head of business development 

 

Terry Castro’s son on maintaining his father’s legacy

 

Palm Springs luxury jewelry executive murder case heads to trial

 

Man sentenced for running jewelry-related Ponzi scheme

 

The ugly fight over massive Brinks jewelry robbery

Inside job?

 

Miners use war weapons to hunt rare jewels in Afghanistan (video)

 

Proliferating gold mines in Venezuela show “grueling, dangerous work”

– How Venezuelan gold is trafficked through Brazil

 

Signet’s conflict minerals report

 

World Diamond Council president hails Kimberley Process “diversity”

– KP Civil Society Coalition sees “little reason for celebration”

 

Despite Nazi shadow, Christie’s sale sets $202 million record

– Yad Vashem rejects Christie’s donation

 

Sotheby’s to auction Mellon family jewels

 

Last emperor of China’s watch sells for $6.2 million

 

New Koh-i-Noor exhibit calls it “symbol of conquest”

– What the crown jewels reveal about Britain’s colonial past

 

Interview with biographer of Harry Oppenheimer

 

How Houston jeweler Johnny Dang became “king of bling”

 

Rihanna rocks a massive diamond on her toe

 

Woman finds ring she bought for nothing isn’t worth that much

 

“Horrifying moment” as bride realizes giant diamond is missing from ring

 

Bride learns engagement ring contains a part of her tooth

 

Media Watch

The New York Times on the use of black in jewelry, the Mikimoto pearl farm, lab-grown diamond “mourning jewelry,” seashells sold with gems, Maria Callas’ jewels, jewelry brands adapting to the digital age, and jewelry inspired by bugs

 

From the Podcast

The Jewelry District, Episode 96: Tiffany’s New Flagship, AGS Conclave and AI, JCK Las Vegas Preview

 

 

Have a great weekend!

 

– Email: rbates – at – jckonline.com.

– Twitter: @robbatesjck

– Connect on LinkedIn

 

 (Photo: Getty Images)  

   

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De Beers’ Lightbox Brand Opens First “Concept Shop” https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/de-beers-lightbox-concept-shop/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/de-beers-lightbox-concept-shop/#respond Thu, 25 May 2023 17:35:44 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=172276 On May 25, De Beers’ lab-grown diamond brand Lightbox opened its first concept shop, as a store-within-a-store at House of Showfields in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

It is one of 20 shops within Showfields, an “experiential lifestyle store,” and plans to stay in the space until November.

Lightbox—which will have its first-ever booth at the JCK Show in Las Vegas next month, in the lab-grown pavilion—has done pop-up stores in the past.

Last year, the brand said it was looking into opening brick-and-mortar stores in the United States in 2024. A statement announcing the Brooklyn location said Lightbox “will continue to grow its retail presence.”

The 250 sq. ft. shop in Williamsburg is outfitted with mirrors, prismatic crystals, and hidden lighting elements that showcase the jewelry, including earrings and solitaire pairs up to 4 cts. t.w.

While Lightbox once vowed to keep its offerings under $1,000, it is now stocking higher price-point items, with pieces that start at $250 and go up to $3,700.

“With its future-forward approach and unique retail platform, Showfields gives us the ability to meet and engage with customers and share the Lightbox story in a more meaningful way,” said Antoine Borde, who was appointed Lightbox CEO last year.

Lightbox product is sold online and at 165 retail stores across the United States and Canada.

A rendering of the new Lightbox concept shop (photo courtesy of Lightbox)

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Jocelyn Zimmer Becomes President of Zimmer Brothers https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/jocelyn-zimmer-takes-over/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/jocelyn-zimmer-takes-over/#respond Thu, 25 May 2023 17:24:28 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=172221 Zimmer Brothers Jewelers has appointed Jocelyn Zimmer president.

She is the first female president of the fifth-generation family business, which has a flagship in Poughkeepsie, N.Y., and a boutique in Rhinebeck, N.Y. She joined the 130-year-old retailer in 2001.

Zimmer takes over from her father, Michael Gordon, who has served as company president for 15 years. He will remain on its board of directors.

“The jewelry industry has always been a male-dominated profession, but women are continually breaking through,” said Zimmer in a statement. “It’s an honor to be in a position where I can use my voice and actions to support and elevate causes that I care deeply about. And as the mom of two daughters, it’s even more special to reflect on what this represents for women in the industry.”

She has begun a partnership with Moyo Gems, an organization that supports colored gemstone mining regions in Africa. The Zimmer Brothers Legacy Collection, hand-selected by Jocelyn Zimmer, will debut this summer.

Some of those pieces will feature a gemstone mined by East African women, cut and faceted by women in the United States, and crafted by one of the jeweler’s female designers.Fifteen percent of those purchases will be donated to Gem Legacy, a nonprofit that provides vocational training, entrepreneurship, and community development in East African gem mining communities.

Zimmer Brothers Jewelers’ new president Jocelyn Zimmer alongside her father (and predecessor) Michael Gordon in front of its Poughkeepsie store

A registered jeweler with the American Gem Society, Zimmer is an active participant in local charities and organizations, including the Dutchess County Regional Chamber of Commerce and the Arlington Business Improvement District.

(Photo credit: Charlotte Jenks Lewis Photography/courtesy of Zimmer Brothers)

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How I Got Here: Lele Sadoughi on Maximizing Opportunities for Growth https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/how-i-got-here-lele-sadoughi/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/how-i-got-here-lele-sadoughi/#respond Thu, 25 May 2023 17:23:34 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=172259 There’s one version of Lisa “Lele” Sadoughi that’s immediately recognizable: perfectly dressed, poised, and polished with a bejeweled accessory—or three—on her somewhere. She’s known as the “headband queen” for a reason.

The other version of Sadoughi is a practical old soul whose prowess in math, marketing, and business has built a wildly successful accessories company, also named Lele Sadoughi, that just opened its fourth retail location within two years. The Houston store opened in April in Sadoughi’s home state of Texas, and she plans to add as many as four stores per year going forward.

Her life has often been a balancing act, Sadoughi says. The girl who always wore a bow on her head that matched her clothing grew up to be a woman with an eye for products people love to wear, and the ability to analyze costs and determines value.

Lele Sadoughi
Lele Sadoughi says her style is unabashedly maximalist but always with a feminine touch—and it’s highly recognizable in her brand.

“I’ve always had a point of view. I’m not a trend follower. I know what I like, and I’ve known it since a young age,” Sadoughi says. “Our brand champions color and maximalism—that’s our DNA, and it spreads across every category.”

Sadoughi was born and raised in Dallas, the middle of three sisters—her older sibling was sporty, and the youngest was the family comedian, she says. Their parents supported Lele’s creativity: Her mother recognized her ability to draw and made sure she could take art classes, explore the arts, and feel free to be that kid who loved to dress up when everyone else was wearing sweatshirts and bike shorts.

At the University of Texas at Austin, Sadoughi majored in advertising but kept up her interest in fashion. She thrifted, went to weekend flea markets, searched eBay for the costume jewelry she adored. Her jewelry blossomed into a collection, and she enjoyed researching a piece’s provenance as much as wearing it.

“Advertising seemed practical; I was never forced into it,” Sadoughi says. “But I am practical about how I do things. I know what things should cost. I know how to get things done.… My best advice [for young designers] is to learn on someone else’s dime. Absorb everything—production, planning, copywriting.”

Lele demi fine earrings
Sadoughi’s latest demi-fine collection includes amethyst malachite deco earrings (second from left, $350), which show off her willingness to mix colors and shapes.

Her first job after college was at a small fashion brand in Los Angeles. She later moved to New York, working at Rebecca Taylor as an associate trim designer and then at Ippolita as an associate jewelry designer, creating pieces for accounts including Banana Republic, Club Monaco, and Neiman Marcus. In 2005, Sadoughi joined J. Crew, where she started its jewelry selection and grew it into a $60 million department.

In 2012, Sadoughi made the decision to establish her own brand of jewelry and a wider range of accessories. Lele Sadoughi‘s categories now include its beloved headbands, belts, handbags, home goods, and more.

Sadoughi’s office today shows off her feminine style—her chair is hot pink, and her bookcases are filled with hundreds of headbands—and her desk is covered at all times with fabric, gemstones, and trim. Though she spends more time on the business side, Sadoughi pursues creative opportunities when she can, developing new product and designing her stores.

“I felt very prepared and had a lot of confidence. When you’ve done something long enough, you mitigate the risk of not knowing what you’re doing,” Sadoughi says. “But even with your own company, you have to be agile. I’m learning new things all the time.”

Top: Lisa “Lele” Sadoughi just opened her fourth retail store and plans to open dozens more in the coming years. (Photos courtesy of Lele Sadoughi) 

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Hearts on Fire Beefs Up Sales Team https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/hearts-on-fire-sales-team/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/hearts-on-fire-sales-team/#respond Wed, 24 May 2023 17:29:47 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=172200 Hearts on Fire has recruited four new members to its sales team and promoted two employees.

Marcus Orduña (top) joins the company as business national account manager. He previously spent five years with De Beers Forevermark as a wholesale sales executive.

Brooke Penuela also comes to Hearts on Fire from De Beers, where she served as education manager for North America for more than seven years. She will be Hearts on Fire’s retail training director.

Brooke Penuela
Brooke Penuela

Both Orduña and Penuela are filling newly created roles at Hearts on Fire.

The Boston-based brand has also hired Liz Paris and Jenny Pak as territory managers, supporting the California and Pacific Northwest markets, respectively. Paris was most recently a regional sales manager for Gabriel & Co. Pak worked for 10 years at Pandora as a divisional sales manager.

liz paris
Liz Paris
jenny pak
Jenny Pak

In other news, Hearts on Fire promoted Kevin Sweeney, who has been with the company for 15-plus years, from customer experience manager to senior manager, key accounts. Cecily Bowen, a Hearts on Fire employee for over five years, was also promoted to senior manager, key accounts, from territory manager, key accounts.

Kevin Sweeny
Kevin Sweeney

The hires and promotions come as the company seeks to connect more with its retail partners, through more frequent in-store visits, regional training events, and in-person engagements.

“Over the course of the last year, we listened and heard they were missing the one-on-one in-person connection,” said Rebecca Foerster, president of Hearts on Fire North America, in a statement. “Now, with this team in place, we can expand and improve our reach through more frequent travel and through Hearts on Fire–hosted training and events.”

Hearts on Fire is owned by Chinese jeweler Chow Tai Fook, which purchased the diamond brand in 2014.

(Photos courtesy of Hearts on Fire)

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Hunter Tivol McGrath Takes Over Family Store https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/hunter-tivol-mcgrath-store/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/hunter-tivol-mcgrath-store/#respond Wed, 24 May 2023 17:28:38 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=172079 Kansas City, Mo.–based Tivol has named Hunter Tivol McGrath its new CEO.

He is the fourth generation of his family to head the century-old retailer. As a child, McGrath helped clean jewelry cases in the store. He became an accountant, but following the loss of sister Brooke to a rare form of meningitis in 2011, he joined the family business.

McGrath started as a sales associate at Tivol’s Hawthorne Plaza store, then moved to its flagship location in Country Club Plaza. From there, he moved up to diamond buyer and, eventually, vice president.

The new CEO is the great-grandson of Charles Tivol, who opened the first Tivol store in downtown Kansas City in 1910. Charles’ son Harold later took the reins, and became a legend both in Kansas City and in the industry.

For the past 30 years, McGrath’s mom, Cathy Tivol Maslan, has served as company CEO.

“The store is intricately a part of who I am,” McGrath said in a statement. “It really gives me the best of both worlds. Being a former CPA, I love numbers. The store also gives me the opportunity to go beyond the numbers and create and build relationships with our clients.

“Tivol has been working for our community for 113 years. In a way, it is not my business, it is Kansas City’s. I am looking after it for both our family and our community, and I take that seriously.”

(Photo courtesy of Tivol)

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Knot Life Collab Entwines the Cast Brand and Fine Artist Windy Chien https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/knot-life-collab-cast-windy-chien/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/knot-life-collab-cast-windy-chien/#respond Wed, 24 May 2023 17:22:13 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=172182 Knots have a language of their own, says “knot queen” and artist Windy Chien, and her collaboration with the jewelry collective Cast shows off how they can speak to strength, protection, and beauty.

Knot Life, which debuted May 23, is a design partnership between Chien and Cast, the San Francisco-based collective cofounded by Rachel Skelly and Eric Ryan. In earrings and pendants, Chien’s knots are elegantly wrapped in 14k gold and sterling silver around charcoal jade, gold, or silver hoops.

For Chien, art is a third career—she formerly worked in the music industry and then joined Apple, where she focused on iTunes. When she quit that job, Chien says she wanted to use her hands to craft something. She tried ceramics and woodworking, but knotting proved the best art form for her.

Windy Chien and Rachel Skelly
Windy Chien and Rachel Skelly selected the materials for the Knot Life pieces to highlight the special qualities of knots alongside the beauty of precious metals.

“My mother taught me in the 1970s when macramé was everywhere—we were all making plant hangers,” Chien says. “I took a refresher class after Apple, and I fell deeply in love. I started small with little rope necklaces and hanging pendant lights. Then, I took it into the realm of fine art.”

Chien is now known for her room-size installations, which she says are meant to show the importance of domestic arts done by women, especially those of a mature age.

“It became about taking up space,” Chien says. “Domestic crafts are often seen as hobbies. But all of that work is valid in our world. When I make [knots] at a massive scale, I feel a sense of awe at it. The work becomes bigger than myself.”

Knot pendant Cast
With the Artist Knot pendant ($3,900), “knot queen” Windy Chien makes a statement with a micro version of her spectacular macro art.

Skelly’s husband worked with Chien at Apple, and she has long followed Chien’s artistic journey. As a former graphic designer, Skelly says was eager to bring Chien into Cast to see what she could do in a new medium.

“The collaboration was interesting because we wanted an artist who didn’t come from jewelry. We knew jewelry and the materials, and Windy knows art and her materials. It was such a fun partnership because of that,” Skelly says.

“We always knew at Cast that we wanted a knot collection, and Windy was at the top of my list, so I sat down and pitched her the idea,” she says. “Knots have been traditionally used in many industries, and they’re a language. For Cast, I wanted a modern take on knots as a symbol.

At that first meeting, Chien astonished Skelly by weaving a necklace as they talked. She gave it to Skelly as a gift when they completed their conversation.

Woven earrings Cast
Knot Drop earrings ($550) from Windy Chien and Cast have two pivoting rings in sterling silver, with knots wrapped around part of each ring.

Chien says there are more than 4,000 kinds of knots, and translating knots into jewelry using different gauges of gold and silver mesh was a challenge she enjoyed. The collaborators selected charcoal jade for some of the pendants because it symbolizes protection, connecting the knot and the stone.

To realize the designs, Chien and Cast had to innovate how the knots work around these materials and how to put the pieces together, Skelly says. As a result, the jewelry is not only a statement in terms of texture and luxury, it also has a sense of lively movement.

“Windy’s work is not a hard, structural thing. It flows and moves,” Skelly says. “If you look at the earrings we created, they spin. They move. They’ll never look the same way twice.”

Top: Windy Chien, known as the knot queen within the fine art world, has applied her specialty to a collaboration with Cast, a jewelry collective that showcases women designers. (Photos courtesy of Cast)

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